My watermelon initiation

Greetings my darlings,

Time again for my weekly blog update...

So when we last "spoke" (I guess I am the only one doing the speaking in this case, but you catch my drift), I was getting prepared to enjoy another exciting weekend in Ghana, which as it very much turned out to be. Though I had planned to take a leisurely Friday evening to cook, read and maybe even do a bit of writing, I was coerced by Ranjith and the gang into going for supper at a nice little Jamaican bistro by the name of the Green Turtle. Jerk chicken and a couple of beers later, we decided to continue the festivities at a club that Laurence (une quebecoise) and Florent (her boyfriend) are quite fond of. And I can see why. Not so much a club as a huge outdoor terrace, we spent a good four hours dancing under the stars to the beat of Ghanaian High Life, possibly one the most danceable musical genres out there. Laurence and Florent also gave me my official Ghanaian initiation, which consisted of a visit to a small booth in the back of an alley where I downed a glass of Alamo, one of the local alcohols. When asked what is used as the base ingredient for this alcohol, Laurence replied "n'importe quoi qu'on trouve dans le champs", loosely translated as whatever happens to be in the field at the time of harvest. Hmmmm...Well, regardless, that potion certainly did the trick, warming the throat, loosening the dancing muscles and lingering the next day in the form of a mild but persistent headache.

After a Saturday of laundry, rest and Alamo recovery, I was able to spend Sunday with Tim, the dancers and their German guests. We hopped on a mini-bus that took us to Akosombo, a town a few hours away from Accra right on Volta lake. We visited the dam responsible for providing most of the electrical power in Ghana, where we learned that levels have been quite low this year...thus explaining why we have power outages for 12 hours every five days or so (you get used to it pretty quickly, though the food in the fridge doesn't always adapt as easily). It was a nice day, and I very much enjoyed having the opportunity to step out of Accra and begin seeing the rest of Ghana...a process that I look forward to pursuing over the next months, particularly when my sister arrives for her 3-week visit at the end of January (Eve, j'ai trop hate!). The landscape was beautiful too, lush vegetation, hills with strange rock formations at the top, and the biggest man-made lake in the world, tempting in the seering afternoon sun until you start thinking about the possibility of bhilariose (aka worms under the skin). Speaking of worms, the day alas turned a bit sour when a piece of watermelon was ingested on the side of the road, along with the little bacteria it contained, thus leading to my first case of food poisoning. It lasted 24 hours and other than some digestive upset and lack of energy, was quite tolerable. And I tell myself that it was bound to happen at some point or another, so after this weekend, I feel that I have been fully and completely initiated!

With Monday spent in bed reading a romance novel that the girls at work had lent me (a Harlequin selection of four Christmas-themed stories) and recovering from the watermelon initiation, I was able to get back to work on Tuesday. On that front, things continue to go well. I had a few meetings this week, did some reading and as most of you kn0w, some emailing for the Orphan christmas party I have been assigned to help coordinate. (On that note, thank you for your kind replies to my plea for help in fundraising...and don't hesitate to email me if you have any questions or need any information).

Oh, and I finally got to go to my reggae party on the beach that I had so been looking forward to! Following a lovely potluck supper at Lidvina's house on Wednesday evening, we headed over to Labadi Pleasure Beach (actual name), where every Wednesday evening, reggae music is played right on the sand, right under the stars and overlooking the waves, to the delight of grinding and girating bodies. As expected, the experience proved a very enjoyable one, and one I look forward to repeating at least a few times during my stay (though of course, the Thursday wasn't as pleasant with only five hours of sleep under my belt).

And here we are again, another Friday, another fun weekend on its way. I'm not sure what my plans are quite yet, but they will probably involve a night out for supper and dancing, as well as some further exploration of Accra during the day.

I am still happy, still well-fed, and loving every minute of my stay in Ghana (okay, almost every minute). I do miss you though...and wish you were all here to enjoy the reggae music under the stars and to share in all these incredible experiences with me.

From Ghana with Love,
Sophie

ps: Following a few questions and complaints, I have changed the function on my blog for comment posting, such that now anyone --not just registered members-- can post their comments. Sorry about the previous limitations...still figuring out this whole blog thing.

Happy, well-fed and worm free!

Hello my darlings

I cannot believe that a week has gone by since my last post. How quickly time flies, and yet how different the pace of things here in Accra. I walk much more slowly, it takes me much longer to cook, to get ready in the morning and to accomplish anything really. I sleep much less than I do in Canada too (I actually wake up at 7, which some of you will know is unheard of for me at home!). Yet somehow, some way, the days keep on running away on me such that I wake up, blink and the sun has already set. Well, I guess it's a good sign, how quickly time is flying...proves that I'm certainly not bored!

Other than confused and distorted perceptions of time, all is well. This week proved a very productive one on the work front. I had five meetings/interviews with local organizations involved in HIV/AIDS and women's related issues, all of which ended up being very interesting and inspired me to write pages and pages and pages of notes. I continue to enjoy my time with SWAA very as well, getting to know the wonderful staff a bit better every day and familiarizing myself with their projects, partners and members. The last meeting of the year for members and the executive committee took place on Thursday, and was quite the experience. The turnout was the biggest they'd ever had, and so imagine about 80 women, men and children squeezed into a room made for a 40 person capacity, max. As a result of this, I had to share my seat with a lovely little 6 yr old girl by the name of Cherie, who spent the meeting holding my hand and drawing in one of my note books, a wonderful addition to my aesthetically monotonous research notes. As seems to be customary when I attend meetings here in Accra, I was given the chance to stand up in front of everyone, introduce myself and say a few words...I think everyone was quite entertained by my pitiful attempts at expressing my gratitude in Twi... with 80 women, men and children breaking out into loud spurts of laughter. Rule 3: the obroni must not take him/herself seriously when attending meetings in Accra!

So work is good, my health continues to be good (still no worms...I wonder if I'm going to keep you updated on my worm status in every blog entry) and in general, life is good...very good. I feel like I am settling into a nice little routine here, figuring out the city and how to get around within its sinuous, crowded and unidentified streets, where to get the best price for mangoes and bananas, and knowing which streets to avoid if I don't feel like talking to one of my many many "friends" (the ones I was complaining about in my last entry! I have made a couple more since, might I add). I have also been blessed to meet an array of truly wonderful souls since my arrival, whether my peeps at SWAA, my dear friend Tim and his entourage, my roommie Ranjith, or Lidvina, a young woman from Toronto who is working on a CUSO project surrounding women and legal issues in Ghana. Moments spent in their company certainly help to ease homesickness and loneliness, though this is not to say that I don't think of you all often and miss you just as much!

Hmmm....I seem to feel rather uninspired this evening, and I'm not sure why exactly. After all, every day here is full of endlessly new and enriching encounters, sites and smells...is it perhaps that I have drained all my writing energy scribbling crazy research notes throughout the week? Or perhaps is it the Whitney Houston music blasting in the speaker right behind my head. Speaking of music, I was treated to my first live Ghanaian band last Saturday evening...and at a terrasse by the side of the ocean to boot! I danced a bit (to the amusement of the crowd, constituted primarily of Ghanaians) and just marvelled in a state of perfectly sober euphoria (okay, I had a few beers, but still) at the shere luck I had to be there, under the stars and by the ocean, listening to some damn fine "high life" (a local style) on a really bad sound system that didn't even matter.

This new weekend promises to be just as lovely...with more exploration of Accra tomorrow with Lidvina, the evening spent at another terrasse, still by the ocean though, and an adventure to a town a few hours away on Sunday, with Tim, his dance troupe and their german guests.

So yes, tis my report for this last week. I am happy, well-fed (in fact, I think I am gaining weight...though people had predicted I would melt with the heat...the latter seems to do little against the sheer power of Ghanaian cuisine...a very yummy combo of fried stuff, carbs carbs and a bit of meat on the side! I cook and make sure to get my recommended servings of veggies and fruits, but still).

Though I am really loving my time here, from the meetings, to the time at the office, to the weekends spent at the beach listening to live reggae...I still think of home often, and miss you all very much. I hope that all is well with you, that you too remain worm-free and that you're getting used to the cold cold cold while I continue to grow a little bit less obroni with every day that passes under the seering Ghanaian sun (not to rub it in or anything).

Bisous mes cheris, je pense a vous
Sophie

The curse of the highway chicken

Hello my darlings,

Back with the newest chapter in my adventures...Have just completed my first week at the office, and though I must admit Im not necessarily unhappy that its Friday,Im also pretty excited at the idea of going back in on Monday. The fulltime staff at SWAA (small group, we are five including myself) are a lovely bunch, all very friendly and fun, and always willing to help guide the often incompetent obroni that I am (though they also take the time to laugh at me in the process!) The work itself has been a bit slow for the first week, but overall helpful...consisting mainly of reading documents on HIV in Ghana, chatting with the staff to familiarize myself with the organization,and making some phone calls to begin arranging meetings and appointments. This last component can prove rather frustrating at times, in that telephones are not always answered (and there are no answering machines), and commitments hard to come by. Call back tomorrow, call back next week, call us later when the president is in. But regardless,I already have a few meetings planned for next week, and continue to feel confident that this research thing will work itself out (most of the time, that is). Plus, I feel like every minute contributes in some way or another to the process, teaching me something new about Ghana, its culture(s) and people(s). My brain has become a sponge, soaking in every little detail...and it feels quite pleasant!

On the social side of things, things are also well. Beyond the wonderful staff at SWAA, I have been meeting lots of interesting souls...like the lovely hairdressers who work at the World Braids Centre in front of the office, who seem to have taken a liking to the newest Obroni in town. People keep on chatting me up in the streets or on the trotros (the minibuses), curious to know where Im from, what Im doing here, for how long. Granted, in some cases, this attention proves a bit frustrating in that it seems to often come from very persistent men who seem ready to admit their undying love after three minutes spent in my company! I already have at least seven phone numbers of individuals I will probably (most probably) not end up calling, and propositions of free hairdressing, visits to Ghanas hotttest attractions, so on and so forth. Its not even flattering really, because it just happens so often you cant help but wonder what the motivations are behind this unrelentless attention.

The cold is gone and the health good (still no worms under my skin!), and I continue to enjoy myself immensely and to count my blessings for being able to take part in such an incredible experience. There is always something new to see, from the beautiful fabrics sold in wood barracks on the side of the streets, to the countless chickens wandering the streets, even on the busiest of highways. The people are so friendly and helpful too, they really know how to make an obroni feel welcomed (okay, sometimes a bit too much...read the overbearing admirers)

I have a nice weekend ahead of me too...tonight, a relaxed evening at home cooking and chatting with my roommie.Tomorrow, a day with Tim, a wonderful guide when it comes to discovering Accra and Ghanaian culture and Sunday, some laundry (I do it by hand in buckets so it counts as an activity in itself) followed by a bit of beach time with a few friends I met yesterday who are working at CUSO in Accra (the beach...and to think that there is snow in Calgary...sorry, I should not be rubbing it in, thats just mean!)

Thank you for your lovely emails and posts...I will try to reply to them personally sooner than later. But in the meantime, know that I think of you often, that I hope that all is well and good on your side(s) of the screen, and that I miss you all very much!

Bisous
Sophie

The new obroni* on the block

Hello my lovelies

(*disclaimer: I still havent figured out how one spells obroni (aka white one), but since it's a word that seems to appear more often than not in my daily encounters, I will take the liberty of using it in a possibly mispelled form!)

So yes, here I am again, writing from Accra and still finding it hard to believe that I am actually here. A lot has happened in the past few days, so much so that I find it hard to know where to begin.

First and foremost, I guess, is the fact that I have now relocated to a new neighborhood, by the name of Labone. It is very central, close to the Osu area where all the other obronis hang out, where one can find anything from a pizza parlour to a bank machine to a big grocery store called Koala where they sell chocolate, cheese and even gossip magazines from Europe and the States (not US Weekly though...thus hindering the maintenance of my addiction...what, don't judge, it's for research!!!!). It certainly doesnt have the same feel as my previous hood (I do really feel like a tourist now) and it was certainly with much regret that I left the lovely Tettey family, but it does end up making me only twenty minutes away from work as opposed to 120mins. The new room is great, in what I can only describe as a small-sized palace, with a view on a beautiful garden and a bed so big it could accomodate a small family (and I must thank Alana here for the contact!). I share the kitchen with a man by the name of Ranjeet, a doctor working at the UN who is originally from Sri Lanka. He is lovely and seems very eager to help me adapt to my new environment. I do miss the constant hustle and bustle of my previous area, which felt much more "traditional" or at least much less bourgeois than this one, but I guess in the long run the proximity will make it worthwhile.

Today was also my first day at work, which went quite well, as far as I can tell anyways! Of course, there was the minor "incident" in the morning, whereby I cockily embarked upon my trajectory to work, only to realize that once in the area, I couldn't find the office. I had to call Betty, the coordinator, to tell her I was lost, and she sent over the driver to come retrieve to stupid little obroni at a store somewhere pretty far away. So much for first impressions! Well, everyone had a good laugh about this, myself included...if I've learned anything in my short time here, its that one cannot take 0neself to seriously when one is obroni. So yes, finally safe and sound within the SWAA offices, I sat down with the coordinator and we mapped out my schedule for the next few months. It looks like I will be alternating between time at the office, and time in the associated organizations, such that I get the chance to partake in less bureaucratic and more "grassroots" type of activities. I am more than happy with this arrangement. And amidst all of this, I should have plenty of time to go off on my own for meetings and other research-related endeavours.

The rest of the day was spent perusing various documents produced by the government body responsible for the AIDS response in Ghana, to familiarize myself with the situation and what is being done, at least at the national level. I even managed to make my way back home without getting lost!

So I guess that sums up the major points, really. I seem to have come down with a bit of a cold, which renders things a bit unpleasant, but still tolerable though. My head hurts, my nose is runny and I feel rather tired, but I tell myself that things could be much much worse (after hearing all those stories of worms under the skin and the other tales that somehow people feel they need to share when they hear you're heading to Africa!). Seeing my sorry physical state, tonight will be a calm evening. A bit of cooking at home, followed by an early meeting with my beyond-king-sized bed. Tomorrow is another big day at the office, and I do hope I can kick this cold sooner than later.

I continue to enjoy my time in Ghana, though of course the move means readapting to a new environment. Life will be very different in this new context, much closer to what I am used to in Canada in terms of food and amenities, probably (or certainly) more expensive too. But as long as I try to keep off the beaten track on the weekends and to limit my consumption of coca-cola to one bottle a week (mind you, you can find that stuff even in the furthest and most remote village), I should be okay.

I see that I only have 8 minutes left, and I have yet to check my five email accounts (not sure how or when that happened...they just seem to multiply on their own), so I should probably end it here for now. So until next time, take very good care one and all, and know that I am thinking of you and missing you all very much too.

Bisous
Sophie

First post from Accra!

Hello my pretties

Well, I have arrived in Accra! After a long and fairly uneventful journey with a stopover in Frankfurt, I finally arrived in Accra, Saturday evening at 6. The heat was not as bad as I had expected coming off of the airplane, though the airport rather intimidating as has been predicted by those who have taken the journey before me. Thankfully, my host was quick to find me as I left the comfort of the airport...and so it is that I met Vincent, Dr. Tettey's brother. He loaded my four bags (yes, I overpacked but the kind air canada woman let my extra kilo or so slide) into his car, and off we went to Ogbojo, where he resides with his lovely family. The house is very nice, and I have my own little guest house to the side, complete with a big room, living room, kitchen, bathroom and even a television and phone. The neighborhood is very nice and everyone very friendly, though it is rather far from Accra's center and where I will be working.

Since settling in, resting and getting used to the heat and the new environment, I have been discovering Accra, an amazing city that words will never be able to describe adequately. It is very very very busy, with constant bustling, coming and going and neverending traffic jams. This explains in part why it takes me 2 hours on average to get from home to my organization (oh, and this is one way!) As had been repeated to me many a times prior to arriving, Ghanaians are extremely friendly and welcoming. They do not hesitate to help a poor Obrowni (white person) in need, while also taking the time to chat, find out where I am from, and laugh at me on too, but all in good fun. The culture shock is really not that bad, and I feel like I am settling in very fast, learning the ropes, meeting people.

I was also fortunate to be in touch with a young man by the name of Tim for about 8 months prior to finally arriving, with email correspondences and occasional telphone calls. We had been really looking forward to meeting each other, and as expected the reunion proved absolutely wonderful. He is incredibly nice and interesting, involved in various volunteer work in addition to his jobs as a primary school teacher and PR person for a dance troupe. Tim has taken me under his wing, showing me Accra, introducing me to his workplace, his lovely and warm family, his incredibly talented dance troupe and his friends. I feel so very fortunate to have such an amazing friend right upon arriving. I've also run into a few Canadian souls, including Aaron, a friend from Calgary who is doing an internship at the Ghana AIDS Commission. He has been here for two months already, so has a chockfull of good advice and tips for a novice expat in Accra like myself! We will be meeting in a few hours to attend a small party at the Canadian High Commission, so more meetings with Obrownis are on the horizon!

And finally, the principal reason for my stay...work! It promises to be quite an experience and one that I am truly excited and happy to be embarking upon. I met with the president, vice-president and coordinator of SWAA (The Society for Women Against AIDS in Africa) where I will be volunteering for the next eight months. They are absolutely lovely and very excited to have me here, a feeling that is more than mutual. In addition to helping them with fundraising and media relations, I will also be spending time in some of their sattelite organizations, all of which are committed to empowering women and children infected or affected by HIV. I seem to have landed in a group of African feminists too....which is so exciting!

Otherwise, the food so far has been delicious, the heat more than bearable (I even managed to exercise today sans air conditioning) and the experience a complete feast for the senses. Everywhere beautiful colors, new sites to see, new smells to inhale (sometimes good, sometimes not so good...read exhaust fumes and the non-refrigerated meat section at the market!) and wonderfully kind people to meet. It has only been five days or so, but I am fully ready to announce that I love Ghana! I am very happy to be here, to be taking part in such an incredible experience where I feel incessantly stimulated, challenged and inspired.

Of course, I miss you all and think of you often too...but I think that this stay in Accra will go by in a flash at this rate!

So yes, this is my news. The body is well (still tired though and a bit sunburned too) the mind is well and I am happy. I will be getting a cell phone soon, so will be sure to send out my number asap in case you feel like dropping a line (with calling cards, its quite cheap). I check my email every few days and the connection is quite quick so I will try to post new chapters as often as I can.

Until next time, take good care, enjoy the cold weather (ha!) and keep on keepin' on
Kisses
Sophie